How to Choose a Designer T-Shirt: Fits, Necklines & Building a Premium Rotation
EQVVS on Fri, Jun 19, 26
Your all encompassing guide to picking a good designer T-Shirt
Alright, we hear you... how hard can it actually be to pick a designer T-Shirt. Get a nice colour, in the right size, from a brand you like. Wear with jeans, pick good shoes. But it's actually more nuanced than that. The t-shirt is the most worn item in our wardrobe, therefore having a good selection is pretty worthwhile. So, in the interest of answer a few burning questions on t-shirts, and how they work (outside of arms in, head through the top, don't spill food on it), we've put together something of a guide to talk you through it.
How to pick the right size for my designer T-Shirt?
The obvious step would be knowing the size of your top half. So, grab a tape measure (a soft one, not the metal one in your tool kit) and you want to measure around the fullest part of your chest. Store in your notes app on your phone for reference later.
We've taken the time to measure pit to pit on as many of our designer T-Shirts as we can physically squeeze into an average working day. The pit to pit is exactly what you think, it's left armpit to right armpit. Then with the help of your GCSE Maths from years gone by, double the pit to pit... and you've got the chest size of the garment. If you've got a chest size of 41/42 and the garments pit to pit is doubling up at 46, then it's fair to assume there will be some leeway on the fabric. In the clothing world, we call it a 'relaxed fit' or 'oversized' or 'boxy loose' among many other synonyms of the word baggy.
**We've also measured the length from neckline to hem, so you can gauge how long it'll be through the body.
How to pick the right fit for my designer T-Shirt?
Across the board, designer T-Shirts are categorised by the following fit; Slim, Regular and Relaxed. Same rules apply for Polo Shirts as well.
And we try to keep it as simple as that. So here are some visual cues:
Slim Fit:
Narrow through the body, instead of dropping straight down from the chest into a boxy shape, it tapers in slightly at the midsection to follow the line of your torso.
Model Measurements:
Model Wears: Medium
Model Height: 5ft10/177.8cm
Model Chest: 38"
Great for: A slimmer build, layering under shirts and sweatshirts.
Regular Fit:
Cut straight from the armpit, down through the torso. Pretty versatile and they layer well.
Model Measurements:
Model Wears: Medium
Model Height: 5ft11/182cm
Model Chest: 38"
Great for: Smart-casual occasions, pretty decent starting point, layers well with overshirts and pair with a good fitting pair of denim.
Relaxed/Loose Fit:
A broader cut across the chest and through the length, comfortable and laid back, often a bit more length to the sleeves.
Model Measurements:
Model Wears: Medium
Model Height: 5ft10/177.8cm
Model Chest: 38"
Great for: Streetwear styles, oversized fits that feel intentional. Pair with baggy fit denim and cargos.
What difference does the neckline make on a designer T-Shirt?
As it stands, the v-neck had it's heyday circa. 2011 and it got deeper and deeper as we got more seasons of Geordie Shore. For most of us, resorting back to a crew neck was the real saving grace and we've been sat with it for some time now. But, even the round neck has variety, and that neckline, as well as it's thickness, can definitely change the silhouette of your designer T-Shirt.
Brands like MKI Miyuki Zoku and REPRESENT often sit higher at the neckline, allowing for the boxier fit of the t-shirt, where the sleeves fall looser from the shoulder. Plus, the ribbing is generally thicker, so they layer with intention under a sweatshirt or jumper. Then, classic brands like Polo Ralph Lauren and Fred Perry keep it nice and simple with a regular crew neck shape, with detailing like Fred Perry's Ringer Tee, with additional colours that pipe around the neckline.
How to choose the right GSM for my designer T-Shirt?
GSM, we hear it in relation to paper, but for us it refers to the fabric weight of a garment. And that weight dictates how your T-Shirt drapes, feels, and breathes.
In general speak, a lightweight GSM weighs in at about 120–150 GSM, so they're great for warmer summer days, breathable and lightweight. However, they're often less durable.
Midweight, your industry standard, sits at 150–190 GSM. These midweight tees hit a perfect blend of breathability and durability. They make for great basics, they layer well and they drape comfortably.
Heavyweight is anywhere from 200–250+ GSM. They're structured, durable, and have a real premium feel. Brands like MKI Miyuki Zoku do heavyweight well, with intentionally structured garments that create an oversized silhouette, without looking slouchy.
How to choose the right fabric for my Designer T-shirt?
For everyday softness and breathability, cotton, especially combed or ring-spun is a cracking place to start. For a smoother finish and longevity you can opt for a Pima or Supima cotton. Cottons blended with elastane or polyester generally retain their shape well and they're easier to care for.
In warmer months, lighter weight, breathable cotton, and stepping away from the slim fit makes wearing a T-Shirt considerably more comfortable. For structure and presence: heavyweight cotton for a more substantial, boxy feel.
How to build a premium rotation of designer T-Shirts?
Building a premium rotation of designer T-Shirts for your wardrobe is fairly easy, all things considered. White is an essential, a graphic tee for character and a selection of fits that layer up or wear well on their own.
Finding the right designer T-Shirt that fits your style or occasion becomes infinitely easier when you know which brands to shop for what you want.
If you're in the market for smart-casual styles, with a regular fit through the body, an option that layers well with overshirts and jumpers, our collection of designer T-Shirts from brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Fred Perry, Lacoste and PS Paul Smith offer a tried-and-true style, in a range of colourways.
Looking for something with a bit of character, a back print, or a graphic, Carhartt WIP designer T-Shirts come in looser, relaxed fits with designs and prints that'll start up a conversation in the pub.
For a premium feel, that speaks with intention, MKI Miyuki Zoku create silhouettes that makes for great everyday basics.